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JCB730DF2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCB730DF2BB
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F2 reading
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • lynn from sunnyside, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Keith from Annapolis, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Kenneth from Salem, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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broken light socket
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
Parts Used:
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
  • James from Monterey, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • daniel from gap, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Heating Element Burned out
The task was very easy. After recieving the replacement I removed 2 small hex head screws using a nut driver. I pulled the slip on connectors apart the reversed the steps. I was done and able to use the oven in less than minutes.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Rick from Tombstone, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Orange light "Hot Stovetop" lense broke off.
Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.
Parts Used:
Lens
  • John from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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8 inch burner was burnt out
replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burner connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Luis from Kissimmee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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burn out switches
Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2100W
  • Thomas from Hinesville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Drawer glider broke about a year ago.
My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Left Side
  • loma from Neah Bay, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
Parts Used:
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
  • Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Right front burner not getting hot
After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2100W
  • Cory from Honesdale, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Open Switch
Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2100W
  • John from Denham Springs, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • David from Lisle, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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All Instructions for the JCB730DF2BB
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