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Replace window pack assembly
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door. - place door on work surface with the outside facing down. - remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top. - Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside. - There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside. - Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed. - Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding. - Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window. - Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom) - Set the new window in its place. - Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane. - Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door. - Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom. - Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door. All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!
Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
1st replacement part was damaged from Shipping. Parts Select sent a new one that i received in only a few days. our stove is slid into a granite island so the disassembly was not as simple as most. It was necessary to remove the controls, the controls housing & screws along the top of the oven door. Within an hour the stove was back in place and working perfectly. Great service from Parts Select
Large right burner would only light in the outside and would not stay on
Ordered the part. Received the box damaged and did not realize the part was damaged until our son came all the way from Columbus Ohio to install it. We ordered another part which came in a timely manner. Even though I reported the problem and told them that we are not very computer literate they still would not accept that the part was damaged until we sent a picture. Our son came back from Columbus to install the new part which took about an hour. He took pictures which I was then able to send. They then asked for a serial number. I had already sent all the numbers from the part but that is when they said they wanted the serial number from the stove. We are elderly and getting that required me getting on my hands and knees to get it near the floor. Luckily I was able to get up. After multiple emails I now have to send the part back. Good luck to anyone working with this company. I will be waiting for them to reimburse me for the defective part.
The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first. 2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots. 3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket. 4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to. 5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones. 6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated. 7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in. 8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it. 9.) All done!
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.