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Oven door gasket was fraying and started to fall apart.
1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first. 2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots. 3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket. 4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to. 5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones. 6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated. 7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in. 8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it. 9.) All done!
1.- going online to orden part 2 disconnect the power from the aplaince shoot Dow the power 3 tear down the appliance and disconnect the four terminals from the damage part reconnect the terminals to th new part reensamble the appliance and ready to go save $275 bucks in handy man labor
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.
Bottom element burned out.i ordered the part.from partselect.
I took the racks out . took the two screws out holding the element.removed the two wires remove the element.then cleaned the oven.put the wires on new element. Put element back in holes.replaced screws.replaced racks.worked like new. I would recommend partselect to any one thanks Lewis
Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year! Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Oven would shut down while baking. Stove top would work.
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.
Oven could not be turned off once settings were turned on except by unplugging hookup.
Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.
