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REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.
I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
Turned off power at circuit breaker. Removed 4 phillips screws from area over oven door. Pulled control panel out and twisted to clear top rail. Pulled two wires off of old switch.Pulled old switch through panel. Inserted new switch. Attached the two wires to new switch. Replaced panel and inserted four screws. Turned on power - it works!
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
Loosened two screws and removed tray, very simple. Replaced new tray and adjusted screws to hold tray. Easiest part was finding new tray part number and ordering replacement using online parts diagram.
Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
