GDRC3KBYKRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

First I flipped breaker to off position for refigerator, Pulled down on socket and broke it free. Then took needle nose piars to pull wire and plug out from hole, so I could conect to new light socket then snaped it in place . Hardest part was getting wire and plug out of hole.

about an hour to figure out what was causing the vibration and noise and about an hour to put it back together and 5 min. to order a new fan blade thank you.It started making noise during thanksgiving dinner so we toke it apart after dinner and I cut the other 2 blade to match the broken one so to cut down on the noise and vibration semi put it back together and 7 days later the part arrived.

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

Pulled out old socket.pushed in new one.

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

per your instructions

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.

Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy