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Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off
Same as others. 1. Unplug dryer from power source 2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer 3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer) 4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me) 5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out 6. Remove and replace secondary coil 7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil 8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit 9. Replace lower front panel on unit
PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley. I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley. The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.
1. Removed two screws from front panel. 2. Removed panel. 3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face. 4. Removed face. 5. Removed drum and belt. 6. Vacuumed. 7. Replaced idler spring assembly. 8. Replaced drum. 9. Replaced belt. 10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated. 11. Replaced tumbler face. 12. Replaced front panel.
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.
Inherited an older Maytag natural gas dryer that was not heating . Just heated at start then would not after 5 mins or so. Went to Partselect site and it had a troubleshooting section and read and narrowed down the part needed by ohming the coils. Ordered the coils for less than $20 and ordered a natural gas to propane conversion kit. Parts arrived in 2 days on regular shipping, very quick! Instruction were very simple to follow and coils were installed in under 15 mins. Propane conversion kit was perfect and was installed in 30 mins and dryer ran just like new. Cleaned inside thoroughly and couldn't be happier. Thank you partselect for great service and saving what would have been more than a $300 service call. Did myself for under $50. I highly recommend this site and will use when ever I can!!! Great service, great way to do business!!!
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
My first attemp was to replace the drum roller and idler roller, drive belt, and the felt seal for the back, since I had experience replacing these on an older machine many years ago. The dryer was very easy to work on....After installing the new parts, I reassembled and discovered it still made the same loud noise. I then, disassembled for the second time to discover the blower wheel was worn out; so i ordered another blower wheel and a drum support roller (i only ordered one the first time.). After reassembling it made an annoying high pitch sound. I attributed that to the new parts...probably the new belt and new felt seal. Gave it some time to run-in and it seems to have quieted down. Overall, i found the dryer very easy to work on. I actually found the felt seal the most onerous to install....needed to have about three hands to get the drum back in place! I just wish that the stamped metal dryer housing didn't have such sharp edges. I had to be very careful to avoid sharp burrs but still got nicked a couple of times.
