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Ice Crusher Broke. Plastic in Ice Tray
Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...
The old ice maker had stopped working properly. The cycle was inconsistent, and inlet water would run over existing cubes in the tray, before they were dumped into the dispenser box.
This was really simple, much like changing a light bulb. Two bolts loosened beneath the old unit to allow it to be lifted off and free. The power supply plug was easily disconnected. The new unit was then placed onto the loosened bolts, power supply reconnected and secured with the supplied wire tie. A small angled bracket was removed from the old and reattached to the new as a support toward the from of the unit. The cycle adjuster was backed off a 1/2 turn as per the instructions....and the next morning....new automatic ice. Life is good!
The in the door ice dispencer would not dispense ice since the auger wasn't working properly to push the ice through the door.
Pulled the old ice container assembly out and discarded it and inserted the new one. It immediately worked and now dispenses both crushed and cubed ice through the door.
I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.
Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
The plastic slides on the Upper and Lower Drawers were broken from years of abuse sliding the drawers in and out. The replacement of the plastic drawers required removing the glass front pieces using a screwdriver and gently seperating the plastic drawer from the front panel from under the assembly. The front panel easily slide out within the drawer runners. Simply slide the front on the new drawer and insert back into the refrig. That simple.
I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.
Water in the ice bin freezing all the existing ice into clumps
You have to blindly unscrew the two screws along the side of the ice maker. Once that is done simply remove the ice maker to the side to gain access to the electrical plug. Undo the plug and remove the ice maker completely. Install the adapter on the new ice maker and install it in much the same way you removed the old. I started the (2) 1/4" screws before installing the new ice maker to make it easier to hang. Pay careful attention to the wire harness and dress it out of the way. Finally tighten the two screws and make sure the bail wire is down to begin ice making once again.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
Shut off water/power - pulled tray -loosened two screws holding ice maker - lifted it up and off - unhooked power connection installed new maker in reverse of above - power supply line was much to long but just pushed it under the ice tray ( away from the maker ) prior to ordering looked at comments from others regarding installation