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Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.
No water from dispenser in front or fill the icemaker
Since we will be working with water and do have an electrical connection nearby, it will be best to unplug the refrigerator to do this repair. It should only take about 15-20 minutes to complete the repair so your contents in the refrigerator should be fine.
1-SImply pull your referigerator away from the wall and unplug it.
2-Locate water supply valve and turn off water to refrigerator by closing the water valve.
3-Remove two 1/4" screws that hold the black "cardboard" cover at the bottom right corner of refrigerator.
4-Then locate the two 1/4" screws holding a light blue valve assembly, again in the bottom right corner of refrigerator. Remove screws and assembly will be loose.
5- Remove water line from the top of the valve assembly you just loosened.
6-Then unscrew the large plastic nut on bottom of valve assembly.
7-Unplug the electrical connector that is on the top of the valve assembly.
8-Install the new valve by reversing the installation. Plug in electrical connector, tighten water line on bottom of assembly, re-attach/tighten main water line on top of assembly- and re-attach valve assembly to refrigerator and re-install cardboard cover. Turn on water supply to refrigerator and check for leaks. Don't forget to plug the refrigerator back in.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.
un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle. easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
Storage Drawers Were Cracked And Broken ...Needed Replaced
Super easy, I removed the drawer fronts off the broken drawers by sliding them off and simply slid the existing drawer front onto the new replacement drawers. Slid the new drawers into place. New drawers fit perfectly.
Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.
First I remove protection cover,then removed the elbow pressing in on the gray coupling housing at each end of the elbow.Mark each piece of water hose before removing the elbow with marker(black)it helps when replacing new elbow.The new elbow slides on each end of water hose ,connect the end to the hose coming out of the door first. Replace protection cover. No more leak.
Remove back panel inside Freezer compartment remove 2 screws that hold (small) fan motor. Unplug electric motor supply and install new motor in reverse order
door handle off but 2 screws top and bottom of handle that attach to door remained under top and bottom molding. had to remove molding which was tricky. Held onto door with plastic clips which several broke when trying to get molding off. Figured out I had to tap top molding up to remove. unscrewed pieces of door handle and attached new handle. Had to use contact cement to secure molding to door where clips had broken.