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Dryer not working
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet 1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer. 2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood. 3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord 4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer 5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer. 6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals 7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire 8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block 9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire. 10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws 11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block 12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet 13) Turned breaker back on
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down 2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet. 3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face. 4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together 5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum 6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out) 7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer 8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time) 9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease 10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum 11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down 12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner 13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet 14) Put the cabinet back together
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me. I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
Dryer would not even turn on. Removed 2 screws holding thermal limiter switch and removed t
Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan
My local repair parts shop did not have the part in stock. Shipping was really fast, so I repaired the dryer in less time than it would have taken if I had let my local shop order the belt for me. Repair was simple, just unplug dryer, pry up the front of the top, remove 4 screws from the top inside of front panel, disconnect two wires from door switch, pull front off, and slip belt around tub. Remove small panel on rear (2 screws), place belt around pulley and move tensioner in place. Reassemble front panel and rear panel.
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.
first i removed the top -second I removed the two screws hold the front on - thrid I unpluged the wiring to remove the front - fourth I removed old part and cleaned off old glue -fifth I applied new glue and new part - sixth I reasembled - worked good as new
