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Dryer was snagging clothes between the drum and frame
Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.
Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.
Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.
A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.
Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..
(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps. 1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips; 2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch; (Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.) 3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening; 4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it; 5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel; 6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel; 7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front; [While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.] 8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.); 9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary; 10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip; 11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel; 12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver; 13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley; 14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum; 15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley; 16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing; 17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Unplugged the dryer, removed the top of, disconnected the electrical connectors, removed the front panel, disconnected the belt, removed the drum, removed the old Safety Thermostat, installed the new Safety Thermostat and assembled the dryer again.
May not have to take out the whole drum to replace the limiter!
After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.
I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation. It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!
