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Broiler shorted out looked like a 4th of july sparkler.
Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!
Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.
Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.
Disconnect electric at panel box. Pull oven out. Remove 5 screws from rear panel. Pull off the 2 clips at the tips of the old element which is located about 2/3 down the back side of the oven. Remove broken element from inside the oven and slide new element in place. Push 2 clips firmly on the ends of the new element. Replace back cover. Turn power on. Test oven. Slide oven back in place.
Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
First, UNPLUG OVEN. Then, remove oven door and place stove on work bench! JUST KIDDING!! Honestly, the repair would be easy if that were possible.The hardest part is kneeling, standing, hunching over, twisting your body holding flashlight in your mouth, etc...THEN, trying to re-attach wires screws etc. The repair is straight forward. unscrew all screws holding element in, pull element out about 6 inches, detach wires, and re-attach. Simple right? Maybe if you're 1 foot 2 inches tall or have 6 foot arms
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.
