I watched the video and followed every step as outlined. It worked perfect, until I reconnected the supply line to my triple water valve. I used the old compression fitting and the compression nut. I should have cut the line and installed a new fitting and nut. The water on the floor the next morning reminded me of that. So back out I went and replaced the compression fitting and it has been as good as new. The ice maker took a few cycles to work again, I think it needed to fill the line with water first. But I have a huge sense of pride every time I hear water dispenced or ice dump in the freezer. Thanks for the help and encouragement!
Ice maker would dump ice one time and then stop. Turning the ice maker off for a minute and back on would repeat the process.
I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.
It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.
This was a very easy fix. I first ordered the cam only and installed it. That was not the problem. I then ordered the hinge bearing and installed it. That was the problem. Both times I installed an item it took about 10 minutes. Watch the video and follow the instructions. My advice to you if you have a clicking of your door order both the cam and hinge bearing and replace both. The items are not expensive.
Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !
Freezer was frosting over , wouldn't defrost , No ice cubes !!! popsicles melting .
Repair man wanted a 130.00 service charge plus parts , With the help of YouTube we did the repairs inhouse , couldn't believe it was that easy. Refrigerator is working like a new one ,our maintenance crew has ice cubes were all happy !
Part 30 on the Ice and water dispenser drawing was broken and needed to be replaced in order to seal the ice chute opening into the freezer.
Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Ice auger not working to push the ice to the ice dispenser
Easy to remove the auger Motor and Solenoid, however, it didn't fix the problem. $300.00 into it I now have to purchase a circuit board for $382.00. Not a happy camper.
Fridge started making a loud racket. Condenser Fan Blade then disintegrated to dust and pieces. The plastic had degraded significantly.
The repair itself total time was quick and easy. Since the original fan blade blew apart, it was only a matter of putting the new one on in it's place. This can be done by feeding the blade between the cowling and Condenser coil and applying pressure to get it on the shaft.
If your fan is still on the shaft, simply push it off and extract it the same way. Then place the new one on the shaft.
In my case, since the part would take a couple days to get, and I had food both in the fridge and the freezer, I removed and unplugged the Condenser Fan Motor and the cowling frame and temporarily spliced a small fan I had into the line for the condenser motor. This kept the fridge working long enough to get the replacement part.
Side note. Direction of airflow is towards the Compressor, and draws air across the Condenser coils.
