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Dryer not heating. When moving it away from wall it was sparking badly where the cord hooks up.
Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!
I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it. I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first! Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another. Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it. I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post. Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge. Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel. I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter. Put on the top panel and done!
1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.
The plastic door handle on the dryer broke and came off.
I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.
I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.
Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.
Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.
I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!
I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.
So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.
Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!
I narrowed the porblem down to the rotary start switch, which is located in the top panel. It takes a hex wrench to remove the four screws holding the fron top panel in place and of course the knobs had to be removed. The switch rotates about a wuarter of a turn to come out. Label and remove the three connectors (3). It took about a week to get the replacement part which was slightly different than the original part. The good thing is it had the three prongs like the old part.. I hooked the connectors in the same configuration as the old switch, plugged the power cord back in to test and it started right up.
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...
- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model) - Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area - Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating) - Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that - Removed old Drum Bearing - Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent) - Snapped new Drum Bearing into place - Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely - Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure
Dryer would not stay off after door was opened and closed. Normally you have to hit the start switch again.
Unscrewed three screws on back and removed the switch and inserted the new one. There are 3 wires that clamp on the switch. Remember to unplug before doing this.
Real easy and great people to work with. Much cheaper than a technician repair.
Unplugged dry cord . Removed top and front cover. Removed drum to replace rear Bearing. Reinstalled drum replaced front bearings and sleeve. Reinstalled both covers and plugged in.
took two screws off the front. They were behind the door. These screws held the top on. Lifted top off and took two screws from the frame holding the front door and panel on. Disconnected three wires and removed front panel. Laid dryer over on right side and removed four screws from bottom and back,two from control panel and removed left side.lifted drum out and removed belt. Removed nut cap and idler pulley wheel. Replaced same. removed three screws holding screen and rear drum bearing to drum. Replaced same. Removed electric heat coils from back and removed receiver for rear drum bearing. Replaced same. Put everything back in reverse order. Works better than new!!