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Installed pump kit. Was surprised the kit seemed different( some parts changed or deleted. Instructed to discard old parts and follow with new configuration. Reassembled and tried t fin it works fine now. Thank you so much
I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.
removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.
water leak at pump house and drive motor shaft interface
after removeing the mounting and trim screws,water lines and associated wiring, the unit slide easily from under the counter then the fun began. After several years of being exposed to the terrible water here the parts had become covered in lyme scale. to make a long story short, most of the parts came out with minor difficulty however the pump motor shaft had corroded and lodged into the pump impellar. This made removal of the pump motor impossible with out cutting off the end of the impellar and driving the pump motor shaft out. This is NOT something you want to do. It seems the engineer who designed the pump motor had it's casing made of plastic. Driving the pump motor shaft out of the impellar caused the back of the motor houseing to break thus rendering the pump motor useless. Lesson: If it becomes necessary to cut off the impellar of in the pump housing you must completely split the impellar in two parts. This I repeat is NOT something you want to do. I recommend replaceing both motor and pump assembly as a unit.
seal was leaking from not being used for over a year
turn off power to unit open the front to remove washer arm and nut turn unit on its front looseing the pump assembly from connections and motor replaced parts reversed order of assembly done cost was much cheaper than other places one place wanted $160.00 another place wanted $130.00 with your parts i fixed it for $61.00 that included two day shipping thanks i will shop here again
First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.
The bottom dishrack was having areas that were breaking off and showing rust.
We took the rollers off the old one (new ones came with the dishrack also) and put them on the dishrack (they snapped on). There was also an extra piece that we figured out how to put on. Then slid it in place and it was fine.
I layed the bottom rack upside down on the counter. Removed the old wheel sets and the new ones just snapped into position. I think the rack rolls better now than it ever did with the original equipment. I'm glad we purchase the Tandem Rack Rollers instead of a new dishwasher, it works great.
Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!
Very easy repair. I gently removed the rubber seal at the top of the tub. here I found the 2 holes to screw the new plate into place. Put the seal back over the hole and job done. Thanks for all the help from the very supportive staff. Yes, a woman did this repair. Dishwasher working like brand new!
Bottom of dishwasher retained an inch of water after cycles complete. Had to pump out dirty water before starting new cycle.
Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.
