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Icemaker was dropping black particles that looked like dirt or mold. What they were was the corrosion of the metallic (pot metal or aluminum) ice form and small corroded particles falling on the ice. The ice form looked like it was coated with teflon or a paint. this form needs to be metal so heati
Replaced the 8 year old icemaker. Turned off power. Did not need to turnoff water supply. Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover. Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover. Disconnected both wire connectors. Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard. Installed new icemaker in reverse order.
Dropped and broke the small bin in my refrigerator.
I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.
Broken spring on bottom hinge of left door mullion.
Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.
I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
This was the first time I took out the old filter on my new refrigerator and added the new one. It was a little hard getting the old one out because I was afraid to pull on it but it did come out ok and was easy to put the new one in.