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Retainer clip was broken and as a result the retaining bar could not do its job
I just snapped the new clip in place. I would like to thank you for your fast service. The part arrived the day after I placed the order. This is almost unheard of. Thank You
The center plastic rail broke off at the end corner, so the drawer would fall off when pulled to far out. On the flat glass side of the shelf, I measured the rail position, and made alignment marks with the marker. I cleaned the center area of the shelf where the rail would be put, and then I removed the paper backer on the adhesive strip of the rail. I was sure to have the rail front end towards the shelf front,
freezer would freeze up and refrigerator section would warm up
Followed online dianostic routine to find problem, eliminated possibilities until only problem was discovered, which was the defrost timer. Hardest part was all the dianostics and locating the defrost timer. The timer is somtimes located at the bottom of the frig. or in my model in the refrigerator compartment. Once I fould and removed the screws replacing the actual timer was simple and only took about 10 mins.
I had a problem with the refrigerator cooling down. I looked in the freezer and the freezer wasn't doing much better as frost had ended up covering all of the vents for the cold air to circulate through the entire system. I had an appliance repair man come out to fix the fridge as it had the same problem about a year and a half ago. I checked the part that he had fixed and figured it was the adaptive defrost controller. I ordered the part and found the controller in the upper back right hand corner of the fridge under the temp control/lights.
First step was to slide out the temp control outer housing by finding the two holes in the back and pulling out evenly. There were about 5 screws that needed to be removed to access the adaptive defrost control under the inner housing. I detached the old control unit and put in a new one. The unit works perfectly now with no problems.
This was very quick and easy and I saved a ton of money doing it myself instead of calling a repair man.
like everyone else, I had trouble getting the left uper plastic fastener to release and ended up breaking it. very poor design. once the screws and bolts are off the whole top slides off and just replace the chip by unclipping the electrical connection and replacing with a new chip. Second time I've had to do this in 8 years. This is obviously a problem that Maytag should really recall and take care of for us consumers. I know when we purchased, we paid a little more for the Maytag name: never again.
Not cooling, repair tech told us what to buy and install
We only knew what the problem was from a repair tech coming out. He was cool so he told us to order the part ourselves and install it. Easy as pie! A plug in part. We saved over $150.00 bucks doing it ourselves!
The end caps broke on several of the retainer bars. The retainer bars kept falling out and so did my food.
I replaced the broken end caps by inserting the new ones into the ends of the retaining bar and then inserted the entire piece into the slots of the refrigerator where the bars were missing because the end caps weren't holding the retaining bar and I had to place them in a safe place outside of the refrigerator. Too easy. I'm just glad it was such an easy fix. I'm thankful for this site, the value was great, service quick and my life is now a little easier.
Like the others, pull out the freezer baskets on the bottom of the frezzer and remove the condenser coil cover. If the coils are solid ice, you have a problem with the unit not defrosting properly. Defrost the coils with a hair dryer (takes about 30 minutes) to get you back to a fridge that'll work for a few days until the new adaptive defrost control board arrives. Then follow directions provided by all the others to replace the board.
My refrigerator would stop cooling and some googling led me to the PartSelect page where I learnt why this could be happening. For the first time, I just used a hair-dryer to remove all the ice from the freezer. But when I ran into the same problem about 15-20 days later, I decided to replace the ADP board. I ordered the part from PartSelect and it arrived promptly.
I started out looking into the freezer section for the ADP board, but after spending 15-20 minutes there, realized that the ADP board is in the refrigerator section. Dont make the same mistake. It took me some time to take the top-panel out but the instructions by others were awesome. Another note: the ADP board is on the inner-side (hidden side) of the top panel. So, you have to actually pull down the top-panel after taking out all the screws. Getting the existing ADP board was a little hard as well and I ended up breaking the latch that holds it securely with the connector (but not a problem since I was going to throw the old ADP board anyway).
Overall, I was quite happy to fix this myself. Thanks and kudos to PartSelect for hosting this forum.
The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting. I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com. I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control Board"! After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost. After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts. While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB. The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached. My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.
The fridge would not stay cold. The freezer was working correctly, but there was a lot of ice build up on the rear inside wall.
Pull the cover of the top assembley in the fridge forward. remove the screws holding the assembly to the roof of the fridge. The Adaptive Defrost Assy circuit board is locadeted in th reare right hand side.
If you own a Maytag appliance you need to be a handyman or you will go broke keeping them working. I replaced the defrost element in the freezer compartment after defrosting the coils with a heat gun. This did not fix the problem. I then ordered the defrost assy.,adaptive and installed it. You have to take out the plastic cover in the top of the refrigerator then the screw in the back of the fridge and the two screws in the top by the light bulbs. Then pull the assembly down and the unit is in the top right hand side. Pull it out and install the new one. Everything seems to be working until something else breaks and it will.
Fridge was warm and freezer still frozen - same story as everyone else!
I had called a repairman and was told that the part alone would cost me $300 and, when he had finished diagnosing everything, he told me to buy a new refrigerator based on needing a "computer". I paid him his charge to come out and even considered buying a new fridge, but we couldn't find one that would fit the narrow space we have the way this model does. (We also have a funky seal that we will maybe replace sometime and I have since purchased the actuator pad.) I read all the posts before I decided we could do it. It was easy with all the instructions people included. I did have a bit of difficulty fitting the new plastic covered module into the space the old one was in, but with it tipped at an angle I was able to screw everything back in place. My only problem now is that the refrigerator is very cold (30-32) even with the temperature control near the bottom setting - but nothing in the fridge is frozen. My husband and I are not real handy and we always fuss at each other when we do this type of thing together, but we did okay because anytime we had a question I would pop back to the computer and read what others said about performing the repair. I would not have even attempted this without all the helpful repair stories. This is a great help - and I almost spent $1,200 on a cheap new fridge. Even though I paid the guy $75 and purchased this part with next day shipping, I figure I saved $1,000! It has been four years since I had this same part replaced under a maintenance contract and I was completely ignorant to how much they would have charged me at the time. If I get another four years out of this unit I will be happy. I also might just keep fixing it with the help of PartSelect! Thanks everyone for your help.
Repair is very simple however the design of the cover that you have to remove is not very user friendly, have to push in the tabs in the back and pull the cover at the same time, then remove 4 screws. Connecting the timer is a bit tricky, it helps to remember how it looks like before you disconnect the old one. It has been one week and the frige is working fine.
