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Location of the run capacitor was not as the video described.
It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.
My amana side to side freezer stoped freezing i found parts select and helped my get a part that by % would be the problemand it worked thanks
I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks
This was second time I had to replace the Defrost Board. Last time was very difficult due to not understanding the instructions. This time I watched the video a couple of times, then went thru the steps in the video. It was much easier this time.
Refrigerator not cooling, heavy frost build-up in freezer compartment
First I unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed the outer plastic cover inside the refrigerator compartment...it just snaps in & out. Used a nutdriver to remove screws from the inner cover & let that just hang down. Located the Adaptive Defrost Timer & unplugged the wiring harness. Removed the old Adaptive Defrost Timer & replaced it with the new one. Reassembled everything in reverse order as stated above. Then I plugged the refrigerator back in & set the control setting to the coldest settings. The freezer side was cooling down much quicker than the refrigerator compartment, but after a couple of hours, everything was working very well. Note: The freezer compartment needs to be totally defrosted sometime before or after this repair is made, which can take a whole day or better!
Freezer coil frosting, buzzing noise in fresh food area
I followed the excellent video instructions to replace the defrost timer. It went faster and easier than I would have expected. In just less than a half-hour the job was done. I saved a ton of money doing it myself.
Called a repair man and he explained that someone had failed to properly close the freezer door, which caused the coil to freeze up...Charged me 75.00 for a service call, thawed out the coil and left... The next 2 times this occurred, I thawed out the coil and then determined that there must be something else. Did a web search and determined that it must be the defrost timer. Ordered the part, watched the excellent installation video and cured the problem.... The whole deal was terrific... Thanks.
Bought it used. Worked fine for 32 days, past the warranty, then started getting too warm. Called a tech who didn't find anything. Checked here and saw 3 parts that might be at fault: refrig. temp control, freezer temp control, defrost timer. The time was most expensive so I started with refrig. temp control. Didn't help. Bought freezer temp control. Didn't help. Discovered that condenser fan motor was sticking. Replaced it but didn't solve problem. Finally bought defrost timer. That fixed it. Works fine now. Replacing parts was easy, requiring only simple tools.
Fridge not very cold and freezer not making ice/not cool
I called the repair folks when I first had the issue. I had frost build-up and the repairman said it would $400-500 to fix. He said I needed a new 'computer chip'. I left him leave and paid the $45 for the diagnosis. I turnedoff the fridge and freezer by moving the levers to off. I removed the top plastice housing with the nut screw and screwdriver in the refrigerator (side by side unit). - 6-7 total screws. I took off the flashing to expose the wires and Defrost element. It looked different since it was not in a white casing like the picture. I unhooked the prongs from the old adapter and plugged in the new adapter. Put the housing back in place and put thescrews back in. Not too difficult. Hardest part was getting the one screw back in on the left side near the lightbulb.
Coils froze up. Had to defrost by hand. Ice maker dripped. Warm Fridge.
The control unit is located in the top of the refridgerator side. Remove the plastic housing. Keep track of where the screws came from. Two screws hold in the circuit board. The circuit board is on the right at the rear of the compartment. The old board has no cover. Plugged it in, put it back together and its working like a champ! Even the ice maker started working again. Not a hard job to do.
Refrigerator would stop cooling until manually defrosted
After unplugging the fridge, I removed the plastic cover covering the parts at the top of the refrigerator compartment by sliding it forward so that the tabs at the right and left rear of it slid out of the tight part and into the wide part releasing them. It was a little hard to budge, so I used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the tabs while I was pulling on the cover. Then I unscrewed a screw at the back middle of the compartment using a nutdriver. Then I undid the two screws holding the Adaptive Defroster unit at the right rear top. After that, I undid the two screws at the front of the top with a nutdriver. After that, I unscrewed two screws, (with a phillips screwdriver) one behind each of the lights to release the top unit and let it tilt down far enough to reach the Adaptive Defrost unit at the right rear. I simply unplugged the unit and plugged in the new one. Then I retraced my steps screwing everything back in.
defrost timer went out, evaporator freezing up and not cooling
Opened the refrigerator door and slid the control to the off position. Removed food from the freezer area and took back panel off to expose the evaporator. Took a hair dryer and thawed ice until completely clean. Removed top panel from refrigerator and took a nut driver and removed the control assembly and lowered it enough to remove the defrost assembly. replced it with the new defrost assy. and then reassembled everything and turned the controls back to normal setting.
defrost out, 2nd time its failed, this is a lemon.
Removed top section of refrig. 2 screws hold cover over thermostat. One screw in very back. Defrost printed circuit board is in right-hand top. It must be made with cheap components. Maytag should have it corrected and give you a new one. For anybody's info it makes a lot of poping noise and I've also had to replace thermostat in ice maker and the water has stuck open one time to the ice maker, luckly I was home.
Freezer frost up, refrigerator side warm to 60 degrees
First, thanks to James from Livermore, CA whose 10/31/07 posting made my job easier. Some parts of my write-up resembles his. I must give him credit for that.
1. Remove the white plastic cover. This was the hardest part. Push up on the two tabs, one each side in the extreme back on the bottom of the cover. Spray silicon spray or WD-40 to the tabs facilitated it. Pull the cover while releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The right side was easier. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a flat screwdriver and I broke it. Tilt the right side of the cover up for moving it out. 2. Remove the hex head screw at the middle back of the Back wall above the top shelf. 3. Remove the 2 small hex head screws that screw the temperature control strip to the top roof of the fridge. 4. Unscrew the two light bulbs for easier access to the screws behind them.. 5. Take out the 2 Phillips screws behind the light sockets. The left one needs a long skinny driver. 6. On the far back right is the ADP board sitting in a well. It took some effort to get the board out. It is shaped identical to the replacement one. 7. Carefully and with some effort, pry the connector off of the board. Re-plug the connector to the new one. (Re-plugging was easier by taking the board out of the casing. Press on the middle tab and pull casing cover apart. Do this on a table so the board won’t fall and risk damage.) 8. Replace everything back. Plug in the refrigerator. Nothing happened. Did not feel cold air coming out of the vent on the back of my palm. 9. Left it plugged for about an hour. It started running. It got frosted up again. 10. Unplug to defrost. Now I thought I replaced the wrong part. After defrosting, I plugged it again. Now the refrigerator is running as usual. It’s been 10 days. Both freezer and refrigerator are maintaining the desired temperatures.
