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Both right side Drawer Slide Rail braken
Very easy. The top rail was replaced with the new part. The lower rail was found broken upon removal of drawers, and not having a second new rail, I made an aluminum inser for the screws to hold fast and attached it with fiberglass tape and CA . I realy was impress with your fast service and knowledge of interchangable parts from other bran makers. We got an GE brand part instead of a Kenmore but It worked perfect. Thanks for your NEXT DAY delivery. .
Solenoid was hanging creating an awful noise when dispensing ice
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid. Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch. Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.
Frost building up in ice shoot air leaking around door recess assembly
First disconnect power and turn off water supply.Removes the cover that indicates water and ice settings,removed 4 screws that held the switch assembly on,unplugged wiring harness (left solenoid wires connected.removed screw holding arm that closes door and removed assembly.Covered hole with duct tape ordered parts (which came very quickly turned water and power back on.When new parts came actuator arm was different on door put old one on door and reassembled in reverse order
UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR.. removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..
I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door. Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block. I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.
Removed goods in fridge, removed shelf, unscrewed 2 screws, installed new drawer slide with 2 screws, replaced shelf, inserted drawer. Most of the time was moving the stuff in the refregerator. If the fridge was empty it would have taken me 2 minutes.
Cold water dispencing was becoming slower and volume of ice was becoming less.
Shut water supply off, removed power plug from wall and removed electrical connector from valve. Unscrewed two plastic nuts which retained lines to old valve. Remove old valve and reinstalled new valve with one screw. Removed inserts from end of lines. (These inserts keep lines from deforming.). Trimmed and chamfered ends of lines reinstalled inserts and installed lines to new valve. Turned on watter, checked for leaks turned power on inserted glass for water received good flow. Ice maker did not receive water. Due to low flow of water to ice tray because of low flow with old valve, ice built up in flexable water delivery tube that goes from back of refrigator to ice tray. Removed tube ran under warm water removed ice blockage reinstall tube all working excelent. This iceing problem took about anouther 15 to 25 min to correct.
The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.
The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.
Lower door hinge cam worn out/door dropped, not sealing
Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.
My wife called me at work and said the refrigerator was "peeing" on the floor.
When I got home I pulled the refrigerator away from the floor, checked all the water lines for leak evidence, and then took the back panel off to check everything behind. The water valve was leaking at the hose insert locations. I turned off the water, spent less than 5 minutes disassembling the valve from the rerfrigerator, and got online to buy another one. The part arrived several days before expected, and it took me less time to install the new part than it did to take the old one out. Now all I have to do is repair the floor damage I caused when pulling out the refirgerator!
Refridgerator and freezer would not stay cold and keep getting warmer.Ice was building up behind the back panel in the freezer and blocking the airflow
First i unplugged the refridgerator.Then i removed the freezer shelves and the 4 screws that hold the rear panel in the freezer.Next use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice from the coils making sure not to overheat anything.Be sure to place something in the bottom of the freezer to catch the water and block the hole with something to keep screws from falling in there. Next,look how the heater element wires are routed so you can get them back the same way or close.Take a picture if you want.Now remove the 2 screws on the end of each element and remove the elements.Replace both even if only one looks bad.The element wire plugs in near the top of the freezer and the thermostat clips onto a metal tube.
you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.
