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Surface element didn't work
Make sure whichever surface element you are to replace is OFF.Carefully remove surface element by pulling it out of socket and remove drip bowl. Cleaned area around range top and place new or old drip bowl in place. Line up drip bowl cutouts and place on range top and simply push in/plug (2 prongs)in new surface element and place on drip bowl. It's that easy! To install 2 new surface elements and drip bowls took less than 5 minutes.
our rental stove needed new drip bowls and heat elements
i at first had a hard time finding the model # on this older electric stove. i did a chat with a rep from partselect.com and they sent me a web site that showed me where to look for it. that helped a lot. found it and searched on partselect.com . they had just what was needed. the purchase was easy and shipping was fast. i was worried it was going to be time consuming finding what i needed, not true once i found their web site. also, installation was easy.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Switches were going bad and making a popping sound and smoking.
Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.
Front left burner would not shut off, then switch fried
Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.
I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.
Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.
Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!
Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.