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Ice Maker Leaked Creating an Ice block
Merely remove the front bottom screw that attached the ice maker to the refrigerator Lift the ice maker gently off of the 2 top screws Unplug the icemaker wiring harness from the back of the refrigerator, and remove Snap off the end of the maker and remove the keeper for the wire arm Remove the wire arm and install on new maker Unplug the wiring harness from the old maker and plug into the new one Plug the harness into the refrigerator, slip the new maker over the top screws, with the water feed tube inserted into the maker Install bottom screw into the bracket that holds it in place. This took less than 5 minutes.
Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time. Steve
Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them
read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take
in any case... - check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side - inspect that the fan in the freezer side is actually turning and not blocked
- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...
- unplug the unit - remove all goods from freezer and fridge - remove freezer side racks - remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place) - allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun) - disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram) - if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so... -- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements) -- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass) -- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors -- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)
- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER. - get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F. - if not, replace it
-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer -- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller -- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
had to saw off the shaft to get the yoke off and tap the holes for the 8/32 screws. all holes should have been tapped by the factory. Other than these problems, everything else went pretty good.
****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
The video of the installation was the best help I have ever had. Rather that vague written instructions that are usually so poorly written they are of no help, the video showed exactly how to do it. I wish everyone provided videos like this!
Very easy to install the new ice maker. Removed the bottom screw holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer. Loosened the top two screws. The old ice maker came off just like that. Unplugged the power supply from the freezer and removed the whole apparatus.
I saved the wiring harness, screws, cover, and metal arm from the old ice maker. Installed these on the new one and mounted the new ice maker in the freezer. Done.
The only issue I had was that the water supply hose got kinked when I pushed the fridge back into place. Once that was resolved, the new ice maker started happily making ice.
