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Washer lid switch worked sometime, sometime not
First, I'm so excited that this site exists because I knew that the problem was minor and I didn't want to pay the outrageous housecall price of a repairman. I read other customers' experiences on how they fixed the problem and that made it sooo easy! Basically unscrewed the screws on the far left and right on the top panel, folded it down toward front, unscrewed and unplugged the ground wire and replaced the part. Someone else had warned that the lid should be open to remove it and that was a huge time-saver. Thanks so much! The part was broken because of very poor design. The part actually worked fine, but the piece of thin plastic that held the part in place broke. Back to the drawing board Whirlpool.
My washer stopped mid-cycle and acted completely dead
I thought the click of the lid switch sounded different so I pulled the top console and tested it for continuity in both positions and found none. When I by-passed the switch the washer started up, so I knew what the problem was. There are four screws involved to remove the console which reveals the lid switch to the left side. There's a single screw for a ground wire but the switch itself is simply snapped in place after disconnecting the wire harness plug (must be done with the lid open btw).
I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!
In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!
I first removed the top panel,disconnected all the wire clips(four)and then removed the back panel which is held in plsce by two bolts on the bottom and one plastic clip.After that i removed the solnoid wires after marking them (hot and cold) the removed the hose clamp then removed the valve it self.Attached the new valve reconnected the hose and re attached the panels and now it works great.
Tub did not center and seal was hanging out of tub
Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.
Water in washer would continue to fill and overflow
Read on Internet to diagnose and get at part. Luckly they sent new fill hose along with level control switch as that was problem. Visually there was no kink or blockage. Upon removing hose, I discovered a slit on hose which did not allow pressure to actuate diaphram. I installed new switch and never thought to return as savings instead of calling repairman was a no brainer !!! Word of caution " never force"when removing or installing a part. It should be easy Steve, Ca.
Teeth on the agitator cam were worn down, so would not agitate.
On my Whirlpool washing machine I first pulled off the top cap piece of the agitator. No clips it just popped off. Second I reached down inside the agitator and pulled straight up on a dome-shaped piece that was a little difficult to get out but it has two metal handles that allowed me to hook my fingers around it. Once I pulled hard enough it came out. Third I used my left hand to hold the base of the agitator still while using a socket to break lose the big nut down inside the agitator. After getting the nut off I pulled straight up on the base of the agitator and pulled the whole unit out of the washer. Here's where I got stuck. I wasted about 45min trying to pry open the little plastic tabs down inside the agitator that hold the cam in place. What I finally did that I should have tried first to step on the base with both feet and pull up hard on the agitator cylinder (that has the spiral fins on it) at it popped off and popped off the cam at the same time. After that reassembling everything with the new cam was straight forward (just reversing all the steps). I hope this helps you.
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring. Washer works great now.
Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.
1. Unplug the machine. 2. Turn the water off. 3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses. 4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it. 5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump. 6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions. 7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way. 8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface. 9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done. 10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly. 11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it. 12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in. 13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK. 14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop. 15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover. 16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface. 17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb). 18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
Agitator was not working properly due to broken plastic pieces in agitator
First I removed the top of the agitator and then used a socket and ratchet to unscrew the bolt and put the new one on and tightened up the bolt, real easy.
I bought a used washer from a friend and they had cut the drain hose short .
I got a pair of channel lock pliers and took off clamp on the hose, after laying wash machine on it's side, poped off a few little clips and replaced the hose, and now everything works perfect.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
Fast simple and supper easy! Please do not waist your time or money on repairmen that rip you off. You are garunteed all the way or your money back from Parts Select. Go to your model number than read a few stories of others to better pin point your problem then order part and your item will ship fast I had my part on the 2nd day of the order. Do not be fooled you can do it easily! I have order twice and both items went smoothly and took less then 10 minutes to put in. Thanks Parts Select for making it possible for the little guys and supporting them and not the big rip off scammers. I will be back when needed. May you continue in your good deed! C.S.