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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year! Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
First I removed the five screws that hold the element in place and pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet. Then I connected the new element to the lead wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.
well first i came here thewn i called got my part the next day by the way paying only regular postage. it took me more time to pull the stove out and find the sockets then to actually put the element in.that took a whole 3 minutes. thanks partselect you guys are the best and i will be back.
My bake element actually caught on fire and broke in two.
First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then took the plate off the back of the range disconnected the two wires from the element and removed the old element. I then inserted the new element into the oven screwed the nuts back on and hooked the wires on the new element from the back put the plate back up on the back and screwed the nuts back on. It took around 15 minutes to do it all and this was the first time that I have ever done this. It was so easy.
Terminal block connectors worn out wasn’t making a good connection with the stove top burner
Cut 4 inch’s off the new terminal block wires then using my wire strippers stripped 1/2 inch off the ends , the old terminal block wires I stripped 1/2 inch at the ends using a wire nuts on both wires and electrical tape connected the terminal block to the stove plugged the new burner in and the burner worked 100%.
The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel. Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one. Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
front lift burner not working and surface light on with everything off
unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
First I removed the screws and popped off the existing element. One of the wires "disappeared" back into the insulation, so I had to remove the back panel of the oven to access that wire and push it back through the opening. Then I attached the new element to the wires and replaced the finishing screws.
Bake element not working, due to fire during cleaning cycle.
Unplugged Stove. Removed two screws. Unplugged two wires from heating element. Connected the two wires to new heating element. Replaced screws. That's all. 5 minute repair job.....(45 minutes to find right socket haha)
Ordered new heating element on Friday afternoon (3pm) and received part on Saturday at 1:00pm. Impressive! (standard shipping)