The ceramic contact housing for the burner had melted, and the back large burner started to burn.
I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.
It was just a matter of removing 5 screws that attached the broiler coil to oven top. Then carefully removing coil so as not to cause wires attached to fall into the back of the oven. Needed an extra pair of hands to hold coil while i guided the wires back thru the opening. All that was left to do was to secure the broiler coil to oven. All completed in less then 30 mins. A lot easier then originally thought. And, a lot cheaper then getting a repair person to do the job.
couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.
Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
1st and formost, unplug the range from the outlet or shut th breaker off (Ranges are on a seperate breaker). Detach 2 wires on the back of the range connected to the element. Remove three nut screws inside the oven holding the old element in place . 1 on the top and 2 at the back of the oven. Now just reverse this procedure to install the new element and your all done.
Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
Surface burner stopped working & light indicator remained on
It took my son very little time to install control switch. Using a screw driver he removed the back panel directly behind burner units & replaced the control switch. Very easy.
