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Ice stuck in mold. mold coating was peeling off.
Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.) I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold) circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end) Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.
the crisper cover which covers both crispers broke in a million pieces as i was cleaning it in my sink
well, first, after calming down i removed the glass from my sink (this took a half hour). then i went to the computer and looked for jenn-air parts. the part-select site came up. the site was very easy to use and although i usually leave things like this for my husband to do i decided to order the part myself, which i did. the trick was finding something on hand to cover the tops of the crispers which were both full of vegetables. i innovated and used a shallow broiler pan and its lid which covered 90% of both the crispers. the part came in five days unwrapping the part was easy, cleaned it with windex (no sink soaking this time) and inserted it on top of crispers............totally easy!!!!!
Old motor was not resetting back to proper position halting ice production.
Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!
Wife learned you can overload the cheese and fresh veggie trays and the plastic rails broke. Repair required removing parts from the old crisper frame -- no experience and no instructions. Had to study broken part and figure out how to remove parts. Released catches with a knife and, by trial and error, figured out how to install rescued components on new crisper frame with minor damage and frustration.
Removed drawers and glass top and support bars Two screws on slid bar two screws on end cap, Make sure you take time to remove air control it has two pivot points with small taps. Then just replace parts as you had taken off very easy.
Original bracket foot brake screw hole was stripped and foot brake would not extend
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).
Clicking noise, getting louder. Then stopped cooling
1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!
Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.
I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!