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Surface element would stay on high no matter the position of selector knob
First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.
Electric element would intermitantly go on high, even on low settings.
Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.
Burners constantly overheating, and inconsistent heating.
With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.
It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install. I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!
It was either fix the terminal blocks or buy a new stove. Our appliance man told us how we could do this ourselves and sent us a link. In the meantime I'd found yours, which was quite a bit cheaper and it too, came with a How To Video. Very easy!! All the parts fit and work beautifully and all for under a hundred dollars! We replaced two terminal block, one element and all 4 drip bowls! Nice friendly service!
when the bottom element didnot work after replacing it, got a new timer, marked all wires, and then took old timer and overlay out and replace timer and a new overlay, rehook up all wires.
Plugged the new one in and it worked. I did search out Frigidaire parts and there are other types tha may or may not work. Calrod burners are not all that unusual. I went with the real thing.
The thin black plastic frame around the old one had become brittle and cracked/disintegrated. So, nothing to hold the functioning unit to the frame. All I needed was a new frame. The one that was shipped was the wrong model number, so it is useless to me. I will be returning it for a refund. Thank you for trying, so sorry, no cigar. Best, Bill Elliott redbeds77@gmail.com 760-505-8009
I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.
I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.
All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.
It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.