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The lint screen had tears on it which could cause a serious problem, possibly a fire.
I unscrewed the old the lint screen FRAME and easily removed it, replacing it with the new one. The new lint -- SCREEN -- just needed to be squeezed here and there, and molded into a better shape. The screen itself, arrived flattened on the bottom, causing it to be too wide and difficult to remove from the frame. I easily molded it with my hands into the shape of the previous one and it slipped right into place. ( Shaped like an oval, flexible sack.) VERY easy!
For me it wasn't even a repair, but rather, open the package, take out and discard the old lint tray and pop the new one in! Done. I didn't have to replace the frame. I would like to comment on how easy ordering was from partselect.com and how quickly the part arrived. Very satisfied customer! Thank you!
First I unpluged the machine, then opened the top with a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws inside, unpluged the door sensor. (makes it stop when opened) Removed old gasket, cleaned with emery cloth, cleaned the residue and applied the glue provided. Waited about 1 min. and applied the new gasket leaving about 1/8'' of it hanging over the door facing the drum.
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps. 1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips; 2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch; (Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.) 3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening; 4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it; 5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel; 6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel; 7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front; [While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.] 8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.); 9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary; 10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip; 11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel; 12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver; 13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley; 14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum; 15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley; 16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing; 17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Popped the top of the dryer off. Removed 3 screws from lower front panel. Removed front panel slide belt over drum, remove 2 bolts from rear panel and installed belt over motor and around idler tensioner. Reinstalled front panel and top of dryer . Also greased idler pulley to shaft , beings tensioner was okay. Plugged in and tested dryer, it was okay. We went to PartSelect. com and order the belt and it was fast shipping. We couldn't find the belt anywhere else. Thanks for PartSelect.
Clothes where getting brown stripmarks on the fabric.
After removing the front door of the unit I removed the Drum seal felt and upper felt part. Then I cleaned the metal ring with acetone to remove dirt. We you install the new parts the glue sent with the Drum Glide is enough for the task with a little left over. Now its working great. Thanks for good part Jeff
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
I took the front part off, then removed the old belt out and installed the new one in. Also fix the tensioner wheel (it had come off) After I posisoned / aligned the belt. Also cleaned the whole dryer with compressed air, it was really dirty and nasty, this dryer has not been cleaned in 20 years, overall I had a great experience with parts select, they send the parts real fast.
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room. 2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end. 3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where. 4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver. 5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place. 6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws. 7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary. 8. lift up and pull out the drum. 9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts. 10. repeat in reverse and your done. It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.
Wire Meshing Had Broken Away From The Rubber Framing Tha Was To Hold It Together And Lint Was Bypassing The Screen And Getting Into The Vent Tube.
Opened the dryer door unsrewed the two phillips holding the filter framework in place did a two second swap-out dropped the new unit into place the new unit and refastened it with the 2 screws that held the old one in place . And was drying a load of clothes within two minutes . . Thank you jg
Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel. Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn. Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc. Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc. Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps. Let it dry for an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal. I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay. Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top. It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.
removed two screws - replaced lint screen replacement, TIME TO REPLACE UNIT - ONE MINUTE. What made this project a snap was the pictures and graphs( parts replace) uses to ensure you are ordering the exact screen .
I first removed a vent cover in the back where the idler is located. With pliers I removed the tension off the spring. Next I simply slide the idler off the post. I pulled up on the top panel which opened like a clam shell. I used a flat blade screw driver to separate the front panel from the dryer so I could slide the new belt around the drum. I reversed the steps. All in all it was easy. It took me about 30min including cleanup.
