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standing water in tub , not draining
removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.
Bottom of dishwasher retained an inch of water after cycles complete. Had to pump out dirty water before starting new cycle.
Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.
Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!
Bottom rack would not roll easily and often came off track
I just pulled out the rack and removed the eight existing roller wheels and roller axles. I was able to remove most of the roller axles with my fingers but needed pliers to remove a couple of them. I then snapped the new roller axles onto the rack and then the roller wheels onto the new roller axles and put the entire rack back in the dishwasher. The lower rack now rolls smoothly and consistently no matter how many dishes we have piled into it. Also, it has not come off the tracks since replacing the roller axles and roller wheels.
Snapped in new ones (8) by hand. I was amazed how fast I was able to find this part online and the ordering was easy and in a few days the parts arrived. No hassle trying to explain to anyone what part I needed. There were pictures of all parts available. Ordering online, especially if you know what you are looking for, is really the way to go.
I ordered 8 new axles and used old wheels. I broke off the remaining axle parts left on the wire lower basket with just my hands, and then popped on the new axles. This was done without tools; just needed significant pressure to pop the axles onto the coated wire. The wheels popped onto the axles with a little pressure. Make sure you have the right side of the wheel out. I simply looked at the remaining working wheels before install began to make sure which side goes out. Very easy install.
Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.
wheels on dishwasher rack falling off and apart, so i couldn't roll the bottom rack in and out
i pulled the rack out, took off the old parts then added the new ones. it was quick and simple. i needed no tools and my package of parts arrived quicker than i thought. thanks!
The water inlet valve SEEMED to be the logical choice of the part that went bad. It was! It was a really easy fix. Undo the bottom front of the dishwasher. Shut off the hot water supply. Unscrew the hot water pipe leading to the valve. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the vlave to the dishwasher. Unclamp the rubber hose on the other side of the valve leading TO the inside of the dishwasher (water outlet side of the valve) And remove the electrical plug on the old valve. Only time consuming part was the need to remove the male/female coppper fitting from the old valve, put it on the new one and reattach the hotwater pipe....don't forget the teflon tape on the threads, the elecrtrical plug, the rubber hose and the front of the case . My wife says it runs like new
FIrst I shut the water and power off. I took 4 screws off bottom panels of dishwasher. Using pliers I move spring clip of the rubber valve. I disangage the hose and disconnected electrical connection ( two wires ) . Then using two open wrenches ( 3/4" and the other probably 13/16" - not sure ) disconnected the copper tubbing. I replaced the valve i reverse order.I used teflon tape for sealing connections . Everything works good now.
