66517792992 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The part arrived the next day after order was placed. That is an amazing service.
When it arrived I noticed that the new part was re-designed but the dimensions appeared to be identical. Initially it was difficult to snap it in to position but with help of a screw driver it finally snapped in place. After re-installation of the upper wash arm all looked perfect. But the arm would not spin freely. It would bind against the bottom of the upper tray. Finally after about 20 minutes I noticed that the mount was slightly slanted to one side. This was not immediately apparent unless you look carefully. Further I noticed that the bottom of the upper tray was protruding lower on the right side. Finally I realized why the mount was slanted to one side. I removed the mount and turned it 180 deg.. Bingo all fits and works perfectly. I could have avoided the problems if an orientation directions were included with the mount. I suspect that a less technical individual would likely not figure it out.

The new rack came with four parts... those four parts were the wheels that the rack rides on to slide it into the dishwasher. You will need to recycle two rubber bumpers, your old utensil basket and the cone in the center of the rack. Getting the cone free was not easy. It has to be rotated to release it from the wire rack. I had to pry it free with a screwdriver. Once rotated it lifted out easily. I noted how the cone lined up in the old rack and installed it the same way in the new rack. It was much easier to install than remove. The new rack has a gray tinge to it but fits perfectly and we are pleased with the end result.

The pump outlet gasket was sticking out and a screw was missing from the pump outlet housing. This was causing water to flood out under the door.

Once I removed the pump outlet housing I saw that the gasket was out of place almost all the way around. I cleaned around the housing, replaced the gasket and the missing screw.

You need a Torx T-15 for this repair. Note that all of the screws on the housing were loose so you might need to tighten them from time to time.

Be careful not to drip a screw when you are installing it since it's a real hassle to fish it out from under the screen.

Once everything was tightened up, the wash pressure seemed to be much higher.

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

I removed all the cabinet screws (be careful, they use a special star bit and mine broke so I replaced all the screws with hex head sheet metal screws which was OK).
I then removed the top-very easy, 3 screws.
Disconnected two hoses at bottom of machine, one with a clamp that needed to be unscrewed the other was standard hose attachment. Put a shallow pan under the hose area where you will be removing them. There will be some water. Remove the hose assembly from the special plastic holder on the inside of the cabinet and remove the assembly from the entry point at the rear of the cabinet. Insert the new hose assembly, connecting the hoses first.
Check the old hose to determine roughly where it had been bracketed to the cabinet making sure you will have enough hose to reach your faucet. I left no slack inside the machine beyond the plastic holder. Reassemble the cabinet to the frame loosely screwing it in until all screws are in. The finish tightening them all. Reinstall the top.
Unscrew the old faucet connector and screw in the new one until fully hand tight. If you use a pair of pliers to tighten it more, protect it from the tool buy using a cloth of plastic jar cover remover to prevent damage. Connect the machine to the faucet, plug it in and let her rip. Mine was leak-less but NOTE- I connected it and tested it before re-assembling the cabinet, Otherwise you won't know if your connections were tight until its too late.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

Took me a while to figure out that the bottom plastic strip is all that holds in the panel. Once it is removed , it pulls out easily When the new panel arrived,just slide it up into the top grooove, and push the bottom strip back into its groove. The front looks like new!