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My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
Removed the rest of the broken retainer plug. Part number was on the top of the plug. Went to Partselect.com looked up the part and ordered it. The right part (important) arrived in a few days. I put the arm back in place, screwed in the new retainer plug and we were back in business. Cost of part about $5.00. Price of not having to share in cleaning the dishes, priceless. Any future problems with any of my appliances, this is the first place I'll look for the needed part.
The original, detachable hose portion developed a hole and needed replacement
Pretty simple. Hardest part was working the end clips of the slide to remove top rack. You simply need to squeeze the plastic clip in to slide it out. Once the top rack is out, it was an obvious philips head screw removal and new part replacement.
Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.
Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.
actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem. just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.
Tube to the spray arm fell off and melted on the element
Removed one screw to get the spray arm off the rack, one other screw to disassembly the spray arm assembly. Replaced worn and damaged parts. Installation was reverse order of disassembly.
Original 3 piece Middle Wash Arm Tube assembly fell off during cycle, landing on drying heat element. On e part of assembly remained in place. It melted to state of non-usable.
I was hesitant at buying the Matag made replacement, especially since it was one piece as compared to my 10-year old 3 piece assembly, and my dishwasher is KitchenAid. Ordered on a Sunday afternoon, had in hand Tuesday same week, one phillips head screwdriver to remove/replace. Everyone smiling! Did not need to remove upper rack. Simply unscrewed 1 screw, put on new one-piece arm, replaced with same screw. 15 minutes! Good price/delivery.
This was my third attempt at fixing the problem. First I tried the bushing under the lower spray arm. This worked for me a few years ago but not this time. I then replaced the door gasket with no luck. I just discovered another bushing that has worn paper thin between the lower spray arm and the nut that holds it. I ordered it and hopefully that will do the trick. I read that if the spray arm wobbles it creates waves in the tub that slop over the edge.
first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.
Dishwasher made a crunching, grinding sound and then stopped working.
I followed the video available on partselect.com and was easily able to follow step by step the process of removing and reinstalling a new Drain and Wash Impeller and Check Ball.
Followed the other repair instructions on this site to replace the fuse assembly. I could not have figured this out without the drawings and user descriptions. Thanks!
Did not have to do any repair, the parts for the dishwasher come with all the necessary parts and no tools were necessary. the wheels were snapped into place for the lower rack and the upper rack should needed to be place in the sliders. The Middle arm holder is not necessary as it comes standard.
There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.
The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.
To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.
To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.
Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.
Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.