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Latch broke on Dishwasher
Had to pull the dishwashwer out to replace the latch. Did this by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the Dishwashwer to the under side of the counter. Dishwasher then pulled out easily. Then unscrewed to screws on the latch. The screws were accessed by pulling out the modling/strip around the dishwasher door. Also easy to replace the screws. But sliding it back in was a little harder. Had to shorten the front legs on the dishwashwer to get the back of the dishwasher to go back in. Then screw the front legs back out. Finally re-inserted the screws under the counter that attached the top of the Dishwasher to the counter top.
Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.
The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?
The plastic disc which sprays the jet has snapped off. This is the disk with swirl pattern on the back face.
1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.
2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.
3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.
4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.
Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.
5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.
Steam venting past gasket causing short in switch at handle lock.
Removed inner cover of door. Pried Vent Assembly from door, peeled off thin sponge gasket strip from inner door, installed new thin sponge gasket strip on inner door vent opening bottom, snapped Vent Assembly into inner door opening, reinstalled inner door cover to door. Recommend removing Vent screen from inner door first to expose locking tabs of Vent Assembly to ease removal and installation of Vent Assembly. I assume vent cover will come off if pried with small screw driver. I didn't remove vent cover and had difficulty removing and installing Vent Assembly. (I did accomplish it though)
first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.
Top blade assembly fell off because of broken plastic on spray arm mount
Installed the new upper spray arm mount. First I installed it backwards which made the blades not turn freely (rub against top rack basket). Turned it around and was good to go. I found it helpful to remove the top basket in order to do this. Note that this clip is gray while your dishwasher tines are white. This does not cause any harm.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.
I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.
My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.
Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.