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Broken freezer door cam and leaking freezer door gasket
First I pulled the fridge out from the wall and turned off the water supply. Next I removed the access panel on the bottom front of the fridge. Located behind the panel was the water supply line for the water dispenser in the door which has a disconnect the I simply unscrewed so that I would be able to lift the door off of the bottom hinge. Next I took one screw out of the top hinge cover to access three small bolts and disconnect the electrical connections to the door. After removing the bolts I lifted the door off and took out the small screw holding in the bottom cam and replaced with the new one. After reinstalling door I removed all the small bolts holding on the freezer gasket. After this the gasket easily pulls out and began installing the new gasket. This part of the job was the most time consuming. After I had the gasket back behind the pinch rail I began reinstalling the bolts. Since the gasket was bent during shipping I simply took a hair dryer to the slightly bent parts of the gasket to get them to lay flat. Freezer now has a great seal and stays closed when refrigerator door is being shut.
refrigerator stopped cooling due to condenser over-heating
Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.
Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
freezer and refrigerator compartments not cold enough
Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.
Philips screwdriver Removed screw (1) Removed light bulb Put in new light bulb Closed door to bulb compartment Returned screw.
Pro tip! Check how many bulbs you need before ordering. Mine only needed two. I got two. I suspect I’ll buy a new microwave before new bulb burns out again. Ordering/delivery was fast. No need to have spare on hand.
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
Motor noise while running and clicking when shutting off
The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!