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Ice maker would not make ice..
1) I removed the icemaker and placed on work table. 2) I pried the front plastic cover from the control box to expose the front base. 3) I removed the three mounting screws from the base (it is not necessary to remove the screw in the plastic gear) and removed the front base. This exposed the back base 4) Using an ohmmeter, I was able to isolate a bad contact on one of the three microswitches in the control box (the one that was mounted to the back base). Replacing this microswitch solved the problem.
This repair was done on a 13 year old fridge. Within the last several years I had to replace the Incoming Water Line twice, the line from the Inlet Water Valve to the Dispenser Water Reservoir, and this time the Icemaker Water line. These were all due to the plastic tubing hardening and becoming brittle from the heat of the compressor.
For this repair, I not only replaced the cracked Icemaker Line, I replaced the Incoming Water Line with copper, and replaced the Dispenser Water Reservoir. If you have a leak in one of the plastic water lines around the Valve Assembly, I recommend you do the same.
The Icemaker Water Line instructions from Stephen from Raleigh was very helful and complete.
I found Scot from Fort Collin's instructions on replacing the Reservoir very helpful too. Although I found his comment that one line was too short, to not be the case. In fact I had to trim both lines because they were too long.
Scott from South Lake Tahoe's suggestion to use the old Reservoir Lines to fish the new ones is good. I used duct tape to attach them together instead of drip irrigation fittings, and it worked fine. It helps to have somebody at the back of the fridge to pull the line while you push it from inside the fridge.
The line to the door connection can be accessed by removing the grill at the bottom of the front of the fridge.
Pretty easy repair. Thanks to the other contributors for the help!
Broken water line near solonoid to feed drinking water
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
The comments from customers experiences gave me the confidence that the defrost timer was the problem since the compressor was still working and it went just as they all said, four 1/4' hex head screws and I had access to the old timer, unplugged the old ,plugged in the new and put the four screws back in. Nothing happened so after a while I looked a bit harder at the accessable part of the timer after intallation and saw what looked like a dial. I turned the dialclockwise and immediatly the compressor turned on. I have not found any information as to how much or little to turn this dial which obviously is an adjustable cycle setting so I just turned it all the way, so far everything is working alright.
Flapper not sealing. Frost buildup on inside of freezer door
Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved
We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!
Turned off the refridgerator. Took everything out of the freezer compartment & put into ice chest with pleanty of ice on top. Removed 2 screws holding the ice maker in place & placed ice maker aside. Removed shelf. Removed one screw on back plate, pushed up on the holding tabs at the top of the back plate & removed the back plate. Removed 3 screws holding the motor bracket in place along with the 3 wires. Installed new motor & used the wire extensions provided due to the electrical connections on the new motor being on the opposite side. Had to bend one wire tab down to clear the motor bracket. Turned refridgerator back on to ensure correct rotation on the fan. Reinstalled back plate & ice maker & shelf. Waited 30 minutes before putting food items back in freezer compartment.
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks
After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.
the left drawer slide rail was broken from years of use.
First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide. I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place. After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm. The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.
The refrigerator was leaking water from the freezer section.
First remove all food from the freezer section, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then remove all the shelves in the freezer.
Then remove the back panel inside the freezer by taking out the screws holding it in and then simply lifting it out. A Philips screwdriver and 1/4" driver was needed.
After the panel is removed, you can see the defrost heater screwed to the refrigerator coils. It's in two sections wired together. One section is screwed to the bottom of the coil and the top section is screwed half way up the coils.
Unplug the wires and thermostat (coming from the defrost heater) from the wire assembly located above the coils.
Next, remove the screws holding the old defrost heater (there are two screws for each element of the defroster)and lift the heater out. Pay close attention as to how the old heater is situated in the freezer in order to put the new one in the same way.
Attach the new heater by putting the bottom element on first and replacing the two screws to secure it. Be careful to keep the wires from tangling and attach the top element the same way.
Next, carefully connect the wires and thermostat from the heater back to the wire assembly the same way they were connected from the old defrost heater.
Place the panel back in place in the back of the freezer section, replace the shelves, and connect the power. You're finished!!
P.S. Don't forget to put the food back in the freezer.
de light flasing on freezer door electronic disply
I removed the back wall panel inside the freezer compartment(approx. 6 screws). The coils were very iced up. I manually defrosted the the coils with a hand hair dryer. I then removed the 2 screws from each heater element and the clip-on thermostat from the coil. I pulled the elements, thermostat and wiring harness(item 230 on parts diagram) out of the freezer compartment and installed the new assembly. Electronic self-check of the defroster indicated normal. Further checks indicated the lower heating element was open.
