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Light socket melted around bulb
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.
I simply snapped in the new part. It took a few seconds. I would like to say that I found the part using the model number of the fridge. When I went to look at the description it said the part was 26 inches. The one I had was only 24 3/4 inches. I called you guys and was told that this was the correct part and to ignore the measuement. You were Right! the part fitted perfectly.
ice maker cycling properly but not getting water on fill cycle
1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place. 2. Removed and drained all water lines. 3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections. 4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly). 5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings. 6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!
Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.
Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.
My evaporator fan was not working. This fan is located in the freezer section, (top), behind an access panel at the rear. Part of it's job is to blow cold air down into the fridge. At first I wasn't sure if it was the fan itself because after the fridge was unplugged an plugged back in, the fan would run for about 5 seconds then quit. So..I tested the auto defrost timer by manually cycling it with a screw driver, it was fine. I bypassed the defrost thermostat switch, no difference. Finally, I cut an old extension cord and connected it to the fan, it was the culprit.. It didn't run on 120. It did spin for a few seconds on initial power up only. After reading that this model may also have a flakey defrost thermostat switch, I ordered both the fan & new defrost thermostat switch. It was a very easy install for both items. No directions are needed, it's obvious when you get in there. Mine is runnng like a champ again.
Water coming out of the ice maker when dispensing water from the door.
This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having. The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.
First, I replaced the defrost timer, really easy, 4 screws popped the cover of the electronic area (top of refrigerator compartment) took it out and plugged in the new time. Unit still would not defrost, so replaced the thermostat as well. Bit harder, removed ice maker, 2 screws, back plate from freezer, 4 screws. Thermostat was clamped to a copper tube- the original had one of the wires hanging out of it- cut the wires and crimped the new wires on, shrunk the plastic tube with blow dryer over the wires (taped them for good measure) and so far so good. Learned most of this through these tips, so keep reading if this isn't your problem, just save myself $1000 on a new refrifgerator...
The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others. Take care-Bill
Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.
Housing that the water filter was cracked. I think ,setting was too cold and froze and cracked it.
It takes a 1/4 " nutdriver to take one screw out that holds the cover over the water filter. You have to come up from the botton of cover. Then take two water lines off housing , by pushing the round collar back toward the fitting,and pull fitting off housing. Then take the two screw out that hold the housing on. Make sure you have the water turned off before you start.
Unplug turn water off Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one Disconnected three solenoid valves Disconnected four water lines Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting Reattach wires to solenoids Slide under loose screw, replace two screws Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water
Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.
