25355333600 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Really, really, really easy:
1.Unplug refrigerator (electrical safety).
2.Remove cardboard cover at bottom of refrigerator (two short self-tapping bolts) with a wrench.
3.Pull old fan blade off fan motor shaft (just held on by a compression fitting--no tools needed).
4.Push new fan blade on shaft.
5. Replace cardboard cover.
6. Plug in refrigerator, write nasty letter to Frigidaire.

First I would like to say shame on electrolux for making me buy a $55 drawer rail for a 25 cent part. I will not buy another electrolux appliance. Repair is eazy, this was the meat tray. I removed the glass shelf inert and then tilted out the entire drawer/shelf assembly. Ithen pushed down on the drawer holder that was not broken to separate the drawer from the rail. The old part slipped backwards and out of the shelf and the new one slid right back in the same place. I then pushed the drawer onto both front retainers, reinserted the assembly into the fridge, replaced the glass shelf and was done. Very very easy. That must mean that this is a high failur part.

pulled old gasket out of groove in door. Put vaseline on slotted part of gasket that fits in groove of refri. door Put some vaseline on gasket surface that would be on the hinge side of door, so it would close with ease. Had no problems at all. Thanks

P.S. Sorry about not having the model No.
The Part No was PS1991324 Magnetic Gasket for Refr side of a Freezer/Refrigerator FRIGIDAIRE There are no screws to remove on this model. Just start at one corner and begin pulling old gasket out of the groove of the door.

The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others.
Take care-Bill

Put in new hinges and two screws

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

It was very easy. I attached to the socket.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help

First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.

The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.