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The middle tub would not come out
Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
Squealing noise when filling washer; water leak in tub; cold water filling slowly.
Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!
There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.
when cold water was entering the machine, there were really loud vibrations through the pipes. Sometimes the flow rate was very slow.
The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.
Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair. Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.
washer very slow to fill cold water and making loud noise
First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.
Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!
First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws. Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.
Hot water connection was stripped and couldn't connect water line to washer
Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.
Shut off both water valves and used a cup to catch water from hoses. Removed top control panel that's held on with 2 phillips screws. Remove top screws on the back to gain access. Was able to access the valve by pulling slightly out on the top corner.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Threads stripped on water inlet valve.
The replacement of the water inlet valve was not too difficult after reading the steps posted by others. The main step is to unscrew the top control panel first, remove the top 2 screws of the back panel, and you have easy access to the water inlet valve. No need to remove the entire back panel. Follow the instructions which accompany the replacement water inlet valve and you should have no problems. The washing machine now fills faster with the replaced water inlet valve. The replacement inlet valve arrived within 2 days of ordering! Thanks for the superfast shipment!
