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The icemaker quit making ice and the water started forming on the bottom of the ice bucket.
First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.
First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.
Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do
removed back cover--disconnect water supply-- removed screw holding vave and unplugged the electric from the valve-- disconncect waterline to the icemaker. reverse the to put on new part.
My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!
I only had to remove the old filter and install the new one - all by hand. I then ran about 1 to 1and1/2 gallons of water through the filter to clear it. A WORD OF CAUTION - HOLD YOUR GLASS CLOSE TO THE WATER DISPENSER FOR THE INITIAL FILLING - IT WILL SPIT UNTIL THE AIR IS PURGED FROM THE SYSTEM!!! An extremely easy repair.
I removed the top vent and unplugged the ice machine ,took the back cover off the freezer.Removed the old fan which was pretty easy(unplugged it after I took the housing out for easy access) I plugged the new fan in and put everything back in the order I took off, and yada yada yada we have cooling.
I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem, when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak. I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers. then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low. I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount. Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed. I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones HVAC problems when I retired. Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man. Tom
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.
40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP