Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Refrigerator light wouldn't come on.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
I first replaced the ice maker and when that didn't work, I found out through this forum that another possibility is the water outlet valve.
When I got the replacement, it took some time to install because the bracket wasn't the same as the original. There are enough places on the bracket to mount the unit, but it may require using some force to bend the bracket so that it will flush with the wall.
After installation, it took about 2 days to fill up the ice bin. It cycles out ice crescents every 2-3 hours.
Thanks partselect for having this forum and saving me some money by having others share their experiences.
Super simple. Extremely fast delivery of part. Simply disconnect the 2 fast-on connectors to valve, disconnect intake and out lines. connect intake and out tubes to new unit, mount via screws to fridge, reconnect the 2 fast-on power connectors and your back in business. Could not be an easier repair.
All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..
Unplug refridge then loosened two bolts holding old ice maker. Lower then unplug and removed. Plugged in new harness and tightened two bolts to secure new ice maker. Plug in frig and wait for ice.
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
Compressor would not kick on and condenser fan ran constantly
Remove back panel on bottom of fridge to access compressor area. Remove screws from water solenoid and water valve and push to the side so the side of the compressor can be accessed. Then locate the inverter box. You will find a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the inverter. This is the only screw that hold the inverter in place. Remove the screw and tilt the inverter box forward away from the compressor, then lift the box out of the the holder. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Remove the plug that attaches to the compressor and then with the power on check your voltage coming to the compressor. It should read 120 volt. If it doesn’t your inverter is bad. Remove the other plug on the inverter box and pull the box out. Reinstall the unit in reverse order. Use the appropriate jumper to plug into the wire connection going to box and then plug it into the connection off the fridge. Once everything is reinstalled and before you put the back panel on plug your refrigerator back in and you should be able to hear the compressor working or feel the top of it to make sure. If it’s working you are good and can reinstall the back panel. It will take 4-5 hours to come back to temp if it’s been off for any length of time.