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Bearings wore out of drum rollers
I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.
removed screws on back plate removed 2 scews for timer assy all done with nut driver removed knob from front installed new timer assy hooked up wires inst back plate done== tested
first we printed out directions from a couple of online repair sites that had pictures. We followed the directions to remove the front of the dryer and removed the belt off the drier and then took out the drum. We had a hard time trying to keep the rear seal on so used CLOTHES PINS to put on the seal, then we added the adhesive replacing the clothes pins until the whole seal glued. Since the drum was already out, we put it in the sun to really dry the glue. Next we attacked the drum support rollers. We removed the back of the dryer and used a 9/16" socket with an extention to remove the back nuts. We took out the shaft, used sandpaper on it and then replaced the triangle clips and the support rollers. Then put the back on again, then the front, making sure the drum fit on the front. You have to then figure out the belt, with the rubber side down, and then work with the tensioner, which took my poor husband a while. Then lowered the top, put the clips back on and the bottom, making sure we turned the drum. It was a success after about 3 hours. You can do it a lot easier with pictures.
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.
Anyone with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart. On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap). Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back. Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug. From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic. After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
I didn't think I could find a replacement part because the dryer was so old (it has fake wood paneling!) and I was already considering the cost of a new dryer. I searched online and found this site. I crossed my fingers and placed my order. When it came, I removed what was left of the old lint remover and put in the new one. It was a perfect match. The colors were a bit off but who cares. PartSelect saved me from having to purchase a new dryer. Yay!
my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..
Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.
First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together. Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.