well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...
The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!
After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.
Disconnected power....lifted the top of the dryer to gain access to parts requiring replacement... Unsrcewed two screws 1/4 inch nutdriver....disconnected the two wires...connected the wires to the new part and attached screws...Removed 1 screw from heat element and raised element to get to heat sensor...sensor pops out removed wires and popped new sensor in...replaced wires closed top lid reconnected power source and started dryer
First i unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Then I used a flat head screwdriver to lift open the top cover of the dryer. I removed the two wires connected to the thermal fuse and removed the two screws that attached the fuse to the holder. I placed the new fuse on the holder using the two screws. I plugged the two wires back up to the fuse and closed the lid. Be sure to fixed what caused the problem before attempting to use the dryer. I my case there was a massive amount of lint beneath the lint tray which had the vent blocked.
Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?
Unplugged dryer. Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet). Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse). Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses. Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads. Replaced the heating coil. Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads. Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm. NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.
Pry up front of top and lay back. Remove two 1/4" srews at top corners. The front of dryer will then swing to the right. The drumb will lift out easily. Remove broken belt. Inspect the drum rollers on the back wall. Replace if loose or not turning. Mine needed replacement. The assembly part is not easy. You need the drum in place and after it is in place you can't get the belt on. After 8 tries I got smart and made a prop to hold the idler pully up, then put the belt in place and let the pully down slowly. It worked! Put the front back on and the 2 screws and pop the top back down. Also it is a good idea to unplug the electric cord and turn off the gas (if app).
- Unplug the electric dryer. - Manually opened the top of the dryer. - Unclipped the wire assembly attached to the front panel of the dryer. - Removed two screws holding the front panel of the dryer, and remove front panel for access. - Very Important!! Note how the old dryer is currently installed before proceeding. - Rotated the dryer drum while working the dryer belt toward the rear of the dryer. - Removed the dryer drum. - Removed the old dryer belt. - Put the new dryer belt around the dryer drum and put the dryer drum back onto the drum rollers and into the rear guides. - Here's the hard part, lay on floor and reach into the pulley area and motor - wrap new dryer belt around these belt rollers as "noted" in the fifth step. - Rotate dryer drum by hand to ensure the new dryer belt is exactly installed as the old dryer belt. - Reinstall front panel. - Reclip wire assembly onto the front panel. - Manually close the top of the dryer. - Plug in the electric dryer.
Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier. Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).
Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.
First, I printed one of these responses which were excellent and very detailed. The screws connecting the lint slot to the top of the dryer was frozen. Taking the front panel off was difficult because I did not read the instructions I printed out very well. After I took the top off I had a hard time finding the 2 screws located inside on the top of the front panel. They are located to the far right and left at the top. To take off the front panel you have to push it up to release the clips on the bottom, then it comes right off. Taking the drum out was easy. What was difficult was putting the belt on. There wasn't any slack and to put it around the pulley and the drum for me was difficult. After that is was a piece of cake. It works great.
lift top of dryer unscrew the top of the pull out filter from the top of dryer. then unscrew the screws near top on the inside of the front panel and have an old soap container handy to hold up the dryer drum. lift the front panel up for removal and put the old soap container under the drum to keep it from falling out. Then mess around with the idler pulley and look up information under pictures of idler pulley in place with belt in Google to see how the belt fits through it.. Finally replace belt, check front and back of drum to insure proper fit and put the dryer back together to see if all works well. and see if the reason for belt breaking is apparant and more than just old age and use.
With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.
What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.
This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.
The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.
In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.
Removed the two screws at the back that hold the top of the dryer. Then I pried off the top at the front by inserting a screwdriver into the front to remove the top from the clips. Then I tilted up the top like a car hood.
I removed the two screws inside that held the front on and lifted the front off. Because of the wires attached to the front, I made sure to turn the front aside without pulling on the wires. After removing the broken belt, I put the replacement belt over the front of the drum, lifting the drum a little. Then I threaded the belt over the drive and around the tension wheel per a diagram I found on the web.
While I had the front off, I removed the lint trap and cleaned out probably decades worth of lint.
Then I replaced all the parts in reverse order, plugged it in and had a working dryer!
![](https://partselectcom-gtcdcddbene3cpes.z01.azurefd.net/346995-1-S-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-amp-quot.jpg "Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241")