WWA5009VCL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

quck delivery thanks. removed back panel and valve assembly. replace unit,and replaced panel. yep it works

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

Unscrew the back cover to washer, Find 3 hole plug, plug in the cord, take the ground wire and screw it to the screw next to the cord that is screwed into the metal frame, put the back panel on and that's it! easy peasy! Remember to hook up your water hoses and turn on the water to check for leaks BEFORE plugging it in! Very Easy!

In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.