WU300 Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.

Removed screws under counter holding washer in place. Pulled washer out until I could access the back. Turned water supply off (in my case faucet under the sink) Turned power off at breaker.
Disconnected water line and electrical wires noting wire location. Removed solenoid unit by undoing two screws on frame. Installed new unit, connected wires and water. Turned water on to ensure no leaks and pushed washer back under counter. Turned power back on and checked machine operation. Replaced the screws under the counter to keep machine in place. This is very easy. In my area a plumber would charge $75 to do this.

The gasket was a breeze, with just pulling out the old one and slowly pushing in the new in the track with my fingers. The shield was a little harder since there was no instructions before me. It turns out that it fits in the inner door and is used as a baffel for the steam (another problem with leaking out the bottom). After removing the front cosmetic pannel you need to thread the shield inside on three tabs that hold it. It took a few times to orientate it properly but it snaps in when correct. After the front pannel was put on and the unit test operated, the washer no longer leaks. Highly recommend the parts and help from PartSelect and the others before me.

Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one full revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

This repair is very simple. Partselect.com sells a repair kit for this problem that you can use but for simplicity the entire unit is not that much more. First remove the four outside lower philips head screws on the inside of your dishwasher door. Support outer door panel while removing screws. This will remove the outer door panel to gain access to the detergent cup. Remove panel by pulling out bottom first then slightly pulling downward. You will then see the detergent cup. Unplug the two leads that are connected to the unit keeping in mind their orientation. Remove the five screws that hold the detergent cup in place. Remove the cup assembly and gasket. Clean gasket area and install new cup and gasket. Reinstall five screws (do not overtighten) and plug leads back in. To reinstall door panel position door panel at a slight angle and install top first sliding upward into place under control panel then push inward at bottom. Reinstall the four philips head screws on the inside and you are finished. The complete repair will take you less than 30 minutes.

Easy. Removed screws at top holding dishwasher to counter. Turned off water to dishwasher. Unhooked water supply line. Electrical and waste lines were long enough to leave connected and pull dishwasher out, set on side. Pull off electrical connector. Use pliars to compress spring holding water line to dishwasher, remove that line from valve. Use nut driver to remove old one, and replace with new one. Teflon tape on water connection to sink. Do everything in reverse.
done.

I pulled the dishwasher out & watch it complete 1 cycle : water was leaking at a through hole used to secure the upper dish rack roller to the cabinet : the nut & seal holding the roller was loose allowing water to drip down the outside of the cabinet under the insulation.: water dripped onto the belt causing belt to slip : many water marks around the pump ; as a precaution i replaced the pump bottom seal & the pump to chassis gasket : I also checked the other 3 rolles ; replaced cracked top flange & installed a more flexable water supply hose .

It just snaps back in but it was a very tight fit and took two people to force it in. Plus I had no instructions and hadn't seen it before it broke so it took a little time to figure out where it was supposed to go. The arm doesn't connected to anything except the rack. I guess water just shoots up into it from below.

Removed the gasket by pulling it's tabs out of the metal slots in the door. This was accomplished by accessing the inside of the door.
Then I realized that I had to dissassemble the side and front panel of the door to install the new gasket. The reason is you have to pull the tabs through the metal slots in the door from the front side. I used needle nose pliers which worked well. Then I had to reassemble the front and sides of the door. No more leaks!! for now. Takes some time if you do it by yourself. Budget at least 2 hours.

After completely pulling out the dishwasher, I removed the rubber housing that connected to the housing assembly. I unscrewed the retaining ring which holds the impeller in place and then pulled the impeller off the shaft (which took quite a bit of force). I removed the seal seat ring and using the impeller and seal kit I replaced all the internal parts to the impeller system. (note: the impeller and seal kit acutally contained the seal-head and seal seat ring so I was able to return those two parts.) I put all of the disassembled parts back together.

The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect

I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and it cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ).
I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws".
Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :)
Happy repairs to you..
Judy Estes Park, CO