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Freezer frosted up, refrigerator compartment heated up
I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.
Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.
First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.
removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!
I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
Pulled the front Pull-face up off the old drawer...pushed the Pull-face down onto the new drawer--looked it over carefully and snapped it into place. Wish everything in my house were this easy to fix.
1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket. 3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section. 4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer. 5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat. 6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape. 7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location. 8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves. 9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling. 10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.
A pretty easy, remove and replace, project. The spring that closes the fridge door had broken. Just pulled out the old part on top of the appliance and put in the new part. I noticed that part of the problem was that the bottem hinge needed a little lubrication too, as the door wasn't closing as easy as it should with the new part installed. I can't complain though, the side by side fridgeadaire is getting old and this was a very easy fix.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
