Rupture of bake element through coating causing flaming and sparks in oven.
We removed the 2 screws at back of oven that hold element on, which took some doing as they were very rusted. We then pulled old element out; this proved a bit difficult because the ends of the old element were stuck in the insulation behind. We had to wiggle the old element back and forth a bit to get it loose from the insulation. Other than that, it was easy.
Remove screws, remove old coil, place new coil, screw back in. The hardest part of this task is removing the existing screws which are most likely partially corroded and hard to move.
The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.
The heating element in our old old oven broke in half. Luckily we were able to find a replacement part (which we didn't think we would that's how old the oven is)! The part arrived within a couple of days, my husband removed the old element (toughest part was getting the two old screws unscrewed) plugged in the new one and he was done. Took about 5 minutes! I turned on the over to test it was connect properly and it started heating up right away! We are VERY happy !! :o)
Long Oven Sensor failure - oven over heated & shut down
Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle
Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.
Element in oven would not adjust to the oven temperature.
I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.
Removed back of stove - 4 screws on top, 3 underneath. Unplugged wires from element. Removed element - 2 screws in front and 2 in the back. Installed new element, plugged wires back in, reinstalled back panel.
Oven have F2 and F3 codes following cleaning cycle making oven inoperable
Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!
I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou
Removed the door by unscrewing two screws holding it to the springs. Then I placed the door face down on a counter top. I removed the screws from each layer of the door and turned each layer over and laid it beside the door. Took care to support glass so it did not fall out and break. When I got to the layer where the seal was, I removed the old seal and replaced it with the new one. Then, I replaced each layer in reverse order. You have to be careful when replacing the layer that goes over the seal that the seal remains in the right place. It has a tendency to slip out of place, so check it before tightening screws. To place the door back on the spring loaded handles, prop the handles open a ways with screw driver handles. This provides a gap so that the door will slip on easily