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Erratic light.
Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.
The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.
My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.
Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.
Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.
After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".
The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
Removed the freezer door which had an electrical cord routed through the lower hinge with a disconnect under the freezer. Job works better with two people. Working the gasket into place was a little tricky at the corners. The putty knife was helpful. Make sure door is not warped when replaced on freezer. If warped slightly the door can be twisted to make gasket fit evenly bottom to top on front edge. Hope this helps DIY folks.
