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Pilot light would go out when oven was turned off but still allowed gas.
l removed the top section after the grates. Then l took the phillips screws out of the three brackets which hold the L brace which supports the controls,thermostat and the regulator. Only because l did not have a closed-end ratchet wrench for 1/4" and l could not locate my 1/4" socket for my small rachet. l disconnected all gas lines and the thermocouple, then l used the power screwdriver without the apex which makes it a great power 1/4" nutdriver and took out the two screws holding the thermostat. Then l just reversed all the steps installing the new thermostat and once l got the air out and gas was pure l lit the pilot lights and everything worked great. And l adjusted my top burner pilot lights a little higher to prevent them from gettig blown out so easy. Done deal.
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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needed to replace a side oven door seal
The trickiest part was making sure that the correct part was ordered. The first attempt was a failure. The seal was too long and the clips were too big. After finding the correct part it was a breeze.
I took a pair of channel locks pulled the old one off pushed the new one on they look really nice and was glad they had the parts for such an old stove. thank you,now my hubby is glad so he doesn't have to buy a new stove.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.