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Light switch broke off
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
Motor noise while running and clicking when shutting off
The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.
Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!
I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.
removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
My fridge / freezer started getting very warm. But, the compressor and condenser fan were operating. I chose the defrost timer from the parts select suggested list. I took it apart and noticed the contacts were in bad shape. I validated this with my dvm meter. By checking continuity across the contacts while turning the timer knob. I also used my meter to check for 115 vac across the 2, 1 connections. . As you turn the timer knob, you'll hear a click. This should close the contacts and connections 4,3 should power up the evap fan. I also pulled the evap fan and powered it up on my test bench. I did this just to validate the timer was the problem. So, if you have a running compressor and condenser fan. Check the contacts on the defrost timer located under the front grill of your unit with a dvm. There is a small gear motor that runs the timer. Don't be fooled by the fact it's running. If the contacts are toast, replace the timer unit. Total time to fix the problem should be 15 mins. Tops.
Refrigerator intermittantly thawing, not getting cold again.
Based on internet research, determined that the problem was likely the defrost timer or the thermostat that's clipped to the cooling coil behind the freezer. Once before, a repairman had replaced the thermostat only, so that was my first repair. Still not working right, so I replaced the timer as well, and everything's working. I opened up the old timer switch and found the contacts were burned, partially arced.
If you have a similar problem, replace both parts. Only about $15 apiece
refrigerated stopped cooling, noticed that coils at bottom of freeezer were all iced over
Very easy repair. Remove 2 nuts that keep timer cover on regrigerater. Remove 2 screws that hold timer to cover, unplug wires from timer. Install new timer.
Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.