Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .
our rental stove needed new drip bowls and heat elements
i at first had a hard time finding the model # on this older electric stove. i did a chat with a rep from partselect.com and they sent me a web site that showed me where to look for it. that helped a lot. found it and searched on partselect.com . they had just what was needed. the purchase was easy and shipping was fast. i was worried it was going to be time consuming finding what i needed, not true once i found their web site. also, installation was easy.
When I pulled the element out of the back panel of the oven to remove it, the electrical connection got caught on the edge of the hole in the panel and disappeared back into the oven insulation. It was difficult to find and pull it back out to reinstall it on the new element.
Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.
purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Switches were going bad and making a popping sound and smoking.
Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.
Front left burner would not shut off, then switch fried
Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great