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Broken rails - drawers do not close well
Very easy. Removed all the parts from the fridge. Removed the glass. Unscrewed the two screws holding the rails to the front and rear support. The front support that has the "fruit" and veggie" settings, you have to remove the plastic name cover off to expose the front screws. The install is the reverse of the removal. The only "tricky" part is remembering the configuration (left from right) and removing the vinyl edging that the glass rests on from the old left and right rails and placing it on the new rails. Good Luck to all! "Quality is not an act, it is a habit" - Aristotle
turned off water supply, took screws out of bracket, then unhooked water lines. Installed water lines onto new valve, plugged it in then screwed bracket back onto fridge, turned on water and was back operating
Repair was very simple. Removed refridgerator bottom back panel, about 6 or 7 screws. disconnected bad valve, installed new valve , connected water supply line and then reinstalled panel. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish.
I took out the vegetable bins and slid in the part. Replaced vegetable bins. Works perfect. I was told locally that GE doesn't make the part any more and that I wouldn't be able to find one. First place I looked on the net was you and found it with no trouble at all. really thrilled to get it. Thanks
refrigerator wasn't cooling but the freezer was working properly
From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.
The replacement single outlet water valve was not an exact replacement and required a slightly different mounting position. The original plastic hose to the ice maker attached to the valve with a plastic nut. The new connection requires only pushing the hose into a hole in the valve. Easy and simple. However, the new mounting angle promptly broke the brittle old plastic hose. I was able to pick the broken pieces of hose out of the valve with a fine point pick saving the new valve. If I hadn't been able to pick the broken pieces out of the new valve I would have had to order another one. Off to the big box store to buy new 1/4 inch plastic hose and a coupler. Repair completed and no leaks. If the hose hadn't broken, the I would have been done in 15 minutes. I suggest you plan to replace the entire plastic hose when you replace the valve.
It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.
Went online to ge how to and saw that there were @12/13 steps to access the slide that this knob attaches to, empty freezer, remove door, remove gasket, etc. Instead I used very warm water to make the knob pliable and slipped it from the front side over the slide track and into the selector slide. Done in three minutes!
The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.) I plugged in the solenoid connection first I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.