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I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
Used a nut driver removed 2 bolts from igniter and 1 wire clip in the back looked on website other people had the same problem ordered part received it in 3 days installed new igniter took about 5 minutes to take out and 5 to install the new one now my oven is working great thanks to this site
Oven door glass not secured at bottom; when opened, glass swings out and catches against broiler drawer, preventing oven door from fully opening.
1. Make sure oven is off and completely cool. 2. Remove any towels, potholders, etc from handle or oven face. 3. Lay out large bath towel or blanket flat on floor nearby. 4. Open oven door partially (45° angle or less). 5. Remove 3 screws securing oven door upper trim. These screws also go through the side trim pieces. Set the screws and the upper trim aside. 6. Push tops of side trim pieces out just far enough that they are not against the side of the oven door glass. Do NOT fully remove the side trim. 5. Remove 2 screws securing handle and glass from the rest of the door. Set these aside, separate from the oven door upper trim and screws. 6. CAREFULLY lift glass (handle still attached) vertically from door assembly and place on large bath towel, preferably handle side against the towel to keep towel fibers out of oven door interior. 7. Close oven door. 8. Place clip(s) in lower door edge slots (this part is fairly straightforward, as the clips only fit one way, with the u channel facing upright and outward). 9. Retrieve oven door glass and place bottom edge of glass into the u channel of the chips. 10. Carefully open oven door. You can brace the handle with your knee to keep everything aligned as you secure the handle screws back in place. 11. Move the side trim pieces back against the glass sides. 12. Realign the oven door upper trim and secure it with its screws. The outer screws will go through the side trim pieces as well.
Unplug range from electric service. Turn off gas supply to range.OVEN Removed the floor panel of the oven housing. Unscrew,and removed the heat deflector. (Caution sharp metals) Used 3/8 socket set to unscrew the old Igniter, used same bolts to mount new Igniter. Go to the back of the range removed the metal guard held by four Phillip screws, unplug old harness, plug new factory plug (do not alter harness)
this is the easiest repair possible. take out bottom drawer.. disconnect power cord. igniter is above burner grid.remove the two screws {be careful not to lose them}. move stove out from wall. from behind stove remove three small screws holding tin cover. and unplug the connector..install new igniter from under stove and plug in connector. install tin cover and move stove back in. replace bottom drawer. and plug in power. replacement saved the repair cost or replacement of a new stove..
Even though the old igniter still glowed, I took Part Select's advise that it may be getting weak and ordered a new one. They shipped the part out the same day, very nice, however FedEx decided for some reason to hold it for five days before moving it along. Boo! When the part got here the fix was straight forward, just a matter of unscrewing a small back panel, unplugging the part, taking the old igniter off the burner and reversing the process with the new part. Oven lit right up. Thank youfor your advise and quick service.
I basically followed the video. The hardest part of the repair was trying to squeeze behind the oven to remove the back plate. Also the original screws holding the igniter took a small Allen wrench that I didn't have so I used an adjustable wrench. One screw was a little difficult but eventually got it tightened. Otherwise this was an easy repair like other reviewers have said.
Igniter was failing to get hot enough to ignite the gas.
It was a very simple repair pulled the old ignitor, and installed the new one in under 15 minutes. It was nice that it was a factory original part and matched perfectly. The wiring plug matched so no need to cut the plug and get ceramic wire nuts. The ignitor works perfectly and gets white hot rather than dark orange, the gas ignites in 20 seconds compared to 90 seconds.
Oven would not get to temp. Igniter glowed but no gas to burner.
Easy. Slide oven away from wall. Turn gas off and unplug. Open oven door. Remove grates and lift out bottom tray to access igniter. Igniter is affixed to burner tube using (QTY=2) 1/4” bolts. Used socket wrench due to limited space for nut driver handle length. Detach igniter. Got to back of oven and remove the protective plate at the bottom. There are three phillips screws. Verify you have the correct cable for igniter by tugging on igniter in oven. Pull old igniter out. Replace old igniter with new using old bolts! Run igniter cable through back using same hole as old igniter. Plug in connector in the same fashion as prior. Before reassembly, test oven. Plug oven in and turn gas back on. Set oven to bake and set temperature. If igniter lights the gas burner tube, you’re done! Reverse process to put oven back together. Job takes 20 minutes, maximum. Saved a bundle!
Pull range out from the wall. Unplugged the old igniter. Took the broiler assembly out of the bottom of the oven by removing 6 philips head screws. Removed the 2 screws holding the igniter & removed. Screwed the new igniter in place , replaced broiler assembly. Got back behind range plugged in the new igniter slid range back into position & turned the oven & it works like a new one.
The side trim on the glass door needed to be replaced.
After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.
If your version of the stove has the square blank manifold tube, this superseded part does NOT work! The instructions that came from Whirlpool are so small and unreadable. I had to scan / take photos of them so I could blow them up to make them readable. If you follow the instructions to the letter, the part will NOT work in the stove. I had to make several extra modifications and further "grinding" along with moving the screw holes to get the part in; and it still does not fit 100% but it is working. I called Whirlpool for help / addition information and that was a waste of time, they sent me in circles and gave me no answers.
This part may work great in other models, but it does not fit SF310PEKW0 with the square black manifold tube.
For reference, I actually know what I am doing when it comes to things.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.