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The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once. gc.
Parts no longer available so we went to several appliance stores and measured racks. We found a jenair model had racks that measured correctly got the model number and ordered the racks. There working great and now the oven looks like new. Our kitchen is a restored 1956 GE metal kitchen in Cadilac pink. Thanks guys for the fast service and very resonsble price. Was also very happy to find the racks were made in USA.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
Sparks shot out from under knob, then, no surprise, the burner didn't work
I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!
Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:
Turned off breakers. Grabbed a beer. Removed two screws holding in plate. Removed electrical connectors. Removed two screws holding switch. Put new switch in place with screws. Reattached connectors. Reseated plate & screws. Turned on power & tested. Finished beer and felt very manly.
The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.
back burn would turn high no mater where you set the control knob.
Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.
Very simple---shut off the power, removed six screws, detached five wires, replaced control switch, put everything back together, turned on power and made husband happy!!!
The oven door seal was frayed, due to using oven cleaner.
First I removed 7 screws, using a Philips head screwdriver, to allow access to the inside of the oven door. I then removed several more screws to separate the panel holding the seal so that I could remove it and replace it with the new seal. Once the seal was in place I re-inserted all the screws to the panel and door to complete the repair. The knobs just slipped on to replace the ones that broke and fell off.
1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop. 2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear. 3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel. 4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch 5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop. 6. Tested new switch...worked great.
